Message Stick http://blogulike.typepad.com/travel_log/ en-gb End Of Part One http://blogulike.typepad.com/travel_log/2005/02/end_of_part_one.html After five brilliant months on the roads of India and Sri Lanka we have decided to return home to raise some more funds for the next leg of our journey. So on March 5th we fly out of Mumbai to... After five brilliant months on the roads of India and Sri Lanka we have decided to return home to raise some more funds for the next leg of our journey. So on March 5th we fly out of Mumbai to Gatwick. We've loved writing the blog along the way and reading all your comments and emails. Normal service will resume later this year when we carry on our trip through China and south-east Asia. If you want to be informed when the blog is up and running again please email us at mshipton@gmail.com and we'll let you know. Namaste for now.

]]>
Mark Shipton
Where's Wally? http://blogulike.typepad.com/travel_log/2005/02/wheres_wally.html Diu's Nagoa beach is full of Indian holiday makers at the weekend. Just like in Goa's Colva beach they all crowd around in one area. This presents a perfect opportunity to emulate the hiding prowess of the bespeckled star in... Diu's Nagoa beach is full of Indian holiday makers at the weekend. Just like in Goa's Colva beach they all crowd around in one area. This presents a perfect opportunity to emulate the hiding prowess of the bespeckled star in such children's books.

]]>
Mark Shipton
A Room With A Diu http://blogulike.typepad.com/travel_log/2005/02/a_room_with_a_d.html Travelling south-west from Ahmedabad we finally arrived on the Gujarati island of Diu for some much needed beach time. We took our first sleeper bus to get there comprising of individual compartments containing either double or single beds. Unfortunately the... ChurchTravelling south-west from Ahmedabad we finally arrived on the Gujarati island of Diu for some much needed beach time. We took our first sleeper bus to get there comprising of individual compartments containing either double or single beds. Unfortunately the extremely bumpy road and the cabin light that wouldn't turn off did not help us get the good night sleep we were expecting.

Once in Diu we found a room inside an old, renovated church and rented a moped to explore the island on, seeking out its different beaches. BBQs in the evenings and excellent dinners at a local family restaurant have all been washed down with a steady supply of cheap beer.

We know from reading this you'll realise the true hardships we have to endure whilst travelling, but please, we do not want your sympathy ; )

]]>
Mark Shipton
Pride And Sikh http://blogulike.typepad.com/travel_log/2005/02/pride_and_sikh.html Upon arriving in Punjab (our most northerly point in India) there were two things that we had to see; the Golden Temple in Amritsar and the border closing ceremony at Wagah. Every night before sunset crowds of supporters cram into... Upon arriving in Punjab (our most northerly point in India) there were two things that we had to see; the Golden Temple in Amritsar and the border closing ceremony at Wagah.

Borders_1Every night before sunset crowds of supporters cram into grandstands on either side of the India-Pakistan border and begin to shout and cheer for their country. Amusingly dressed guards parade up and down in front of their countrymen while an MC whips them up into a patriotic frenzy. Once the excitement is at fever pitch the gates are closed and the two countries' flags are lowered at exactly the same rate so as not to put either in a superior position. This has to be one of the most surreal sights we've witnessed on our journey so far.

Golden_temple_mainBack in Amritsar we enjoyed free food and accommodation in the Golden Temple, the Sikh religion's holiest site. Food is dished out in a large hall but is prepared everywhere. Groups of volunteers sit on the floor chopping vegetables that are cooked in giant pots in the kitchen. Production lines of chapatti makers ensure a constant supply of food is available. The temple itself is set in a lake that provides an elegant reflection at any time of the day.

We sped back to Delhi on India's finest chair car train, the Shatabdi Express. Complimentary food and drinks are delivered to you roomy seats throughout the trip. If only all Indian transport were like this.

]]>
Mark Shipton
Powder Heaven http://blogulike.typepad.com/travel_log/2005/02/powder_heaven.html A 9 hour bus journey starting at 3 am is bad enough. Things get considerably worse when 9 hours turn into 12, including 4 unscheduled changes, the last of which took us to a new level of squalor when... Helen_mark_board A 9 hour bus journey starting at 3 am is bad enough. Things get considerably worse when 9 hours turn into 12, including 4 unscheduled changes, the last of which took us to a new level of squalor when a local took a shit on the back seat. Fortunately the state of the bus distracted us from the road conditions where a single wrong move would have ended our discomfort very quickly.

As you can imagine we were pretty relieved to get off at Joshimath, only a cable car's ride away from Auli, India's premiere ski resort. Set in the Himalayas with a stunning backdrop of Nandi Devi, the tallest mountain in India, there were more dogs on the piste than people. Several nights of snowfall meant there were acres of untouched powder to leave our tracks in. We managed to hire some ancient but adequate equipment and spent a few days snowboarding. The days were always clear but cold so our small wooden huts' wood burning heater kept us toasty in the evenings. It was great to be back in the mountains!

]]>
Mark Shipton
Public Service Announcement http://blogulike.typepad.com/travel_log/2005/02/public_service_.html Due to a 3 am bus we needed to catch we decided to spend the night before in a roach motel on the outskirts of Rishikesh's bus station. After fiddling with the room's TV we managed to alter the set's... Due to a 3 am bus we needed to catch we decided to spend the night before in a roach motel on the outskirts of Rishikesh's bus station. After fiddling with the room's TV we managed to alter the set's welcome message to something more appropriate for future guests.

]]>
Mark Shipton
A Pinch Of Sgt. Pepper http://blogulike.typepad.com/travel_log/2005/02/a_pinch_of_sgt_.html Following in the footsteps of the Beatles we set off to chill out in Rishikesh for a few days. Spread out along the Ganges and surrounded by green hills, Rishikesh is full of westerners staying in prison-like ashrams in search... RishikeshFollowing in the footsteps of the Beatles we set off to chill out in Rishikesh for a few days. Spread out along the Ganges and surrounded by green hills, Rishikesh is full of westerners staying in prison-like ashrams in search of spiritual enlightenment. Despite its boast as being the world's centre for yoga and meditation we opted to take a cookery class instead. Lakshmi, our culinary guru led us through the preparation of a traditional Indian thali and we got stuck in making alloo parathas.

Though the Beatles had left long ago the Monkees could still be found monkeying around.

]]>
Mark Shipton
Shrove Tuesday http://blogulike.typepad.com/travel_log/2005/02/shrove_tuesday.html Even though we're around 4000 miles from home, some traditions have to be observered ; )...
Even though we're around 4000 miles from home, some traditions have to be observered ; )

]]>
Mark Shipton
Tales From The Riverbanks http://blogulike.typepad.com/travel_log/2005/02/tales_from_the_.html Orchha TemplesWalking around the temples and palaces of Orchha is like stepping into a film set. With crazy staircases leading to nowhere, high walkways and vulture topped spires we half expected David Bowie to appear on the ceiling singing " Dance magic, dance". Trolls and goblins aside, the pace of life is relaxed here. Ancient ruins dot the riverside where villagers go to bathe and wash their clothes.

HaridwarWe finally got some sunshine after four weeks of cold so it was nice to sit outside and soak up the rays. Unfortunately the weather did not follow us as we moved north to Haridwar on our way to Rishikesh. The Ganges runs fast and clear through this town. Pilgrim bathers need to hold onto chains to resist the strong currents. Though we didn't dive in we did dip our fingers, something we never dreamt of doing in Varanasi.

We ate a spicy breakfast from a street vendor amidst a large-scale brawl between a chef and his customer. We didn't find out the cause of the trouble but after trying these disgusting pickles we were ready to lynch the chef too.

]]>
Mark Shipton
Rhythm & Blue http://blogulike.typepad.com/travel_log/2005/02/a_bit_of_blue_f.html A walk around Khajuraho's ancient AD 900 temples revealed some quite saucy carvings (and we thought Sri Lanka had the monopoly on timeworn filth). The temples are covered from top to bottom in intricately carved figures that are an amazing... Khajuraho_templesA walk around Khajuraho's ancient AD 900 temples revealed some quite saucy carvings (and we thought Sri Lanka had the monopoly on timeworn filth). The temples are covered from top to bottom in intricately carved figures that are an amazing sight to behold. Apparently they illustrate authentic Indian life a thousand years ago but by the looks of this happy fellow we're hoping society has advanced a little ; )

LoudspeakerAs part of a local festival this temple was blaring out religious chanting 24 hours a day... for 3 days solid from a loudspeaker on the roof. Our hotel room was in excellent range of the site so we could enjoy their simple songs all through the night. On our last day we rented bikes to cycle around the temples so when we'd finished we decided to check out the source of the racket. Moments later we were welcomed in and began chanting 'Rama Sita, Rama Sita' over and over again along with the Sadhus. After we'd shown off our singing proficiency we moved onto the harmonium and tabla. Unfortunately we showed a little too much aptitude at these and the guys who were playing them quit their shift early and left us in charge. For about 30 minutes we polluted the air of Khajuraho until we managed to palm the instruments off onto some locals.

]]>
Mark Shipton